Moosehead Lake is an exquisite kayaking and hiking destination

By Ron Chase

Moosehead is Maine’s largest lake and Mount Kineo is one of the state’s most distinctive peaks. Combining a kayak paddle on the lake with a climb of Mount Kineo, which I call a surf and turf, seemed like the ideal way to end the kayaking season and begin fall hiking. A previous Moosehead surf and turf that included a partial lake traverse is a chapter in my new book, “Maine Al Fresco: The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine.”

For several years, I’ve organized fall surf-and-turf trips at locations around the state for my outdoor club, the Penobscot Paddle & Chowder Society. When I announced this year’s Moosehead trip, four Chowderheads expressed interest. The date was dependent upon two consecutive “good weather” days as I had decided to add a second peak to the agenda, Little Kineo Mountain. Arguably, the most important weather factor was wind as treacherous blows are notorious on Moosehead.

One of the few benefits of old age is the flexibility to make last-minute outdoor decisions. Unfortunately, when two exceptional days were forecast, three of the hopefuls were unable to participate. On the plus side, my son, Adam, was able to fit the plan into his work schedule.

We began our excursion at Kineo Landing in Rockwood on a beautiful fall day. The marvelous colors of the autumn foliage coupled with the majestic cliffs of Mount Kineo provided a breathtaking start for our endeavor. As predicted, the winds were almost nonexistent for the mile-long crossing to the landing at the foot of Kineo. 

A surf and turf has an inherent complication. Paddling clothes are not suitable for mountain hiking. Adam and I changed into hiking shoes and clothing at the landing, donned packs that included water and snacks, and began the mountain undertaking. 

We followed the flat Carriage Trail along the shore for a short distance to Indian Trail, which ascends along the cliffs until it joins Bridle Trail about halfway to the summit. The panoramic vistas of southern Moosehead Lake from Indian Trail were nothing short of phenomenal. After connecting with Bridle Trail, we entered a wooded area and proceeded to a restored fire tower that offers spectacular 360-degree views of the surrounding area.

Shortly after leaving the fire tower, we met a couple who had canoed across the lake from Birches Resort near Rockwood. They were the only hikers or paddlers we encountered during the entire outing. Our decision to follow the Bridle Trail on the descent was a mistake as heavy rains the previous night turned the badly eroded path into a virtual stream.

From the landing, we kayaked 2 miles north to the northwest tip of the island, where the spacious Hardscrabble Point Campsite is located. After setting up camp, an exploration of nearby Farm Island was added to the day’s adventure.

Hardscrabble Point Campsite offers an exceptional view of the northern portion of the lake, including Little Kineo Mountain in the northeast. A clear night, star gazing was exceptional.

We awoke to another outstanding day. A hearty breakfast was consumed while watching the first rays of sunshine reach the summit of our intended goal, Little Kineo Mountain.

The 2-mile open water crossing in calm conditions to Moosehead Public Lands on the east shore was easily accomplished. We quickly located and walked camp roads toward Little Kineo Mountain. After hiking steadily up from the lake for about 2 miles, the clearly marked trailhead was on the left. A small parking area is available for those arriving by vehicle.

We found the narrow 1-mile path to the summit to be in exceptionally good condition for a remote and infrequently hiked mountain. The first half was in a predominantly hardwood forest covered with a blanket of recently fallen leaves. In the upper portion, we ascended a series of steep ledges in a conifer forest. Nearing the summit, an overlook offered an expansive vista of central Moosehead Lake. Soon after, we arrived at a rounded open ledge that is the high point.

We experienced mirror calm conditions during the paddle back to Hardscrabble Point. After breaking camp, our return to Rockwood was equally pleasurable.

It’s difficult to imagine two more exquisite days for our fall surf and turf. The endeavor will be difficult to duplicate next year, but we’ll try.